THE MINERAL KING ROAD
CORRIDOR
Historic
Points of Interest
It was economic opportunity that created the
first road up to the Mineral King Valley in the early mining days.
It was economic opportunity once again that demanded a better road
after the turn of the century. That opportunity came with the advent
of the automobile.

The new road was carved out of the
East Fork's steep canyon walls with sheer drop-offs below the
road-bed. |
The
New Road
Almost
as soon as the Mineral King Wagon and Toll Road was completed in
August of 1879, some fifteen or twenty teamsters met with the Tulare
County Board of Supervisors asking them to repair the county portion
of the road from Visalia to Hammond.
Members
of the board agreed to inspect the road and found it indeed "...
in a rather unserviceable condition and requiring a considerable
sum of money to put in repair." Lacking funds, the supervisors
suggested the toll road company might be prevailed upon to handle
repairs on the entire road from the first foothills on up to the
Mineral King Valley.
Unfortunately
the toll road company began to have its own financial problems.
Robert McKee deeded the road to Tulare County in 1884, but the county
still didn't have the necessary funds to maintain it. Each spring,
the Alles family at Atwell Mill, the Crowley family of the Mineral
King Resort, and in the 1890s the park's army troops, donated their
own time and money to keep the upper portions passable. But the
whole road deteriorated little by little.
"A
great many horses are in miserable health owing to the wretched
condition of parts of the Mineral King road," the Visalia
Delta editorialized in August of 1902. "With a good road
to the mountain resort a great many people would spend their summers
there." And, of course, that would bring more business to the
county.
Then
came the advent of automated carriages. By 1910, automobile trips
to mountain resorts were becoming a popular pastime. Atwell Mill,
the Mineral King Resort, and the proposed Oriole Lodge Summer and
Winter Resort above Oak Grove all needed a good road that could
accommodate cars. But the Mineral King road still was barely passable
even for sturdy wagon teams.

The new road joined the old toll
road on the hill above Champagne Gulch. |
Tourism
wasn't the only attraction. The Mt. Whitney Power Company also was
a consideration. The influential company needed better access to
its flume on the East Fork and to its dams above Mineral King. The
old "temporary" River Hill Grade (see
River Hill Grade article) with its 25% to over 35% grades needed
to be abandoned.
In
June of 1910, a petition was filed with the Tulare County Board
of Supervisors requesting a new road from the Red Hill Summit to
Cain's
Flat or Oak Grove. On June 7th, bond was posted for "Road
Viewers" to survey and locate the best route. Jason Barton,
John Taylor and County Surveyor Byron Lovelace were appointed to
do the job.
The
three men filed a report recommending the new road run approximately
5 1/4 miles along the south side of the East Fork of the Kaweah
"... to a crossing above the tunnel of Mt. Whitney Power and
thence to a point on present county road above Champagne Hill."
The estimated cost of construction was $16,000 for the road and
$1,600 for a bridge over the Kaweah River.
Nothing
more happened that summer or fall. In 1911, three supplemental petitions
were filed. On them were the signatures of dozens of influential
men and businesses of Tulare County. In March, Byron Lovelace filed
yet another petition.
"We
find that the proposed road is not in the strictest sense a necessity,"
he advised the County Supervisors. "But we do say that the
change is badly needed. . .We recommend that this proposed change
be made as soon as possible if work can start this season and money
is available."
Then
the Oriole Lodge Corporation made a tempting offer. Looking at the
benefits a good road would bring to the resort, the owners of its
forested land offered to furnish up to 100,000 board feet of lumber
for the construction of culverts and bridges, free of cost to the
county.
Finally
the County Supervisors bowed to all the pressure and preliminary
work for a new road was begun. "Specifications for Construction
of a Portion of the Visalia-Mineral King Wagon Road" were issued
for bids. Acquisition of right-of-way began. In September, a 60
foot strip of land running through four parcels of private property
was deeded to the county by A.O. Griffis, Manuel Pestana, Guy Hopping,
and the Mt. Whitney Power and Electric Company.

Bear Canyon with its blackberry patch
was a cool rest stop. One year a man started a fire here, reportedly
to commit suicide. |
In
October, an agreement as signed with the Oriole Lodge Corporation
stating the sole and only compensation to be paid to the Oriole
Lodge Corporation was completion of the road. The lumber was to
be delivered to Oak Grove by December 1st, and Byron Lovelace filed
a new cost estimate of $12,311 "over and above" the lumber
furnished.
On November
8, 1911, the only construction bid entered was opened. J.L. Moffett's
bid of $16,100 was rejected by the Board of Supervisors, "...
it appearing that the bid for the construction of said road was
too high, and that the work of such construction can be done more
cheaply by day labor."
What was now
designated Road No. 981, or the Visalia Mineral-King Cut-Off, was
built by the county's road commissioner. The construction took two
years.
The roadway
was 12 feet wide with 8 feet of "solid roadbed". The specifications
stated it must be smooth and free from all projecting roots and
rocks, although anything less than one foot square was considered
dirt. No brush or timber could be left in the embankments. 25 culverts
had to be placed at least 8 inches below the grade of the road.
Five bridges had to be built over Pine Gulch, Grand Canyon, Slick
Rock Canyon, Bear Canyon and the East Fork gorge.

The original wood bridge was built
in 1913 giving automobile access on the Mineral King Road.
It only lasted 10 years. |
The
bridge over the turbulent East Fork river was a special challenge.
It had to span 115 feet of the canyon. The original specifications
called for redwood or cedar timbers 14 inches in diameter. But the
Oriole Lodge owners had trouble providing such large pieces so the
specifications were lowered to 10 by 12 inch pieces with 14 inch
timbers used only for the piles. Two 60 foot stringers were made
of four 3 by 12 inch by 16 foot boards belted and clamped together.
It was a breathtaking bridge to cross.
Road
No. 981 was opened in the summer of 1913.
"This new road is a splendid mountain highway," Sequoia
Acting Superintendent, First Lieutenant H.S. Johnson reported on
August 11, 1913. "I trotted my horse along its entire length
and there are numerous and excellent turnouts ...I believe that
the complete opening of the Park to automobiles is important."
But
motorized traffic wasn't to happen that year. The poor condition
of the rest of the road and a controversy over park and county ownership
kept it closed to automobiles until local citizens demanded its
opening and an agreement was worked out between the county and park
for its maintenance.
In
1915, a contract was awarded to C.E. Hill to reconstruct the steep
section from Hammond up to Red Hill Summit. After that, it wasn't
long before automobile traffic became the norm. Even so, the new
road wasn't easy, especially on the downhill return. Overheated
brakes could fade on this lower portion and even wagon travel could
be dangerous.
Fred
Ogilvie's team ran away with his wagon just six miles from the end
of the road. Fred jumped from the wagon as it broke loose from the
horses then watched the wagon sail over the canyon's edge, turn
a half gainer, and land up-side-down in the river. Years later,
in the 1940s, the Mineral King Resort truck went off the road going
up-hill near the same spot. Fortunately, it caught in a bramble
of bushes as it slipped over the edge so its load of Sierra Club
visitors was shaken but unharmed.

This 1920 photo of the bridge shows
a definite sag in its middle. |
Probably
the most frightening portion of the road between 1913 and 1923,
was the high, narrow, wooden bridge over the canyon below Oak Grove.
The timber structure soon showed signs of sagging and the wood flooring
rattled and creaked. Bob Barton had a job hauling cedar posts down
from the forests in his father's two-ton Nash truck one summer.
Bob said that when he crossed that old bridge he would set the hand
throttle, get out of the truck and walk along side it holding on
to the wheel, so he could try running if he heard cracking timbers.
In
1923, the wood bridge was replaced by the concrete structure that
is used today. On its down-stream side the rocked platforms and
concrete footings for the first bridge still are visible. On the
up-stream side, a cable was once strung across the gorge with a
"car" for workers to go out on, to measure the turbid
waters.

The 1913 Wood Bridge crossed the
river to the right of the current concrete bridge built in 1923
as shown in this photo. The power company flume just above the
road was constructed years before the road was built. |
(CREDITS:
: The Visalia Weekly Delta, Oct. 10, 1879; The Visalia
Delta, Aug. 6, 1892; Letters from Sequoia National Park archives
relating to the building of the Mineral King road Oak Grove section,
1913-1914; Documents and letters from Tulare County Public Works
files; Jim Barton Oral History on the Mineral King Road, 2000. Photos
from Jackson files. Compilation by Louise Jackson. Webmaster, Jillaina
Brown)
www.MineralKing.org:
Last updated May 24, 2003
|